The Marquesas
May 12 - 18
Background
In case you want to know more about the Marquesas Islands, here's some information copied from South Pacific Handbook by Moon Travel Handbooks. Ten main islands form a line 300 km long, roughly 1,400 km north-east of Tahiti, but only six are inhabited today: Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, and Ua Huka in a cluster to the northwest, and Hiva Oa, Tahuata, and Fatu Hiva to the southeast. We visited the three to the southeast.These wild, rugged islands feature steep cliffs and valleys leading up to high central ridges, sectioning the islands off into a cartwheel of segments, which creates major transportation difficulties. Large reefs don't form due to the cold south equatorial current though there are isolated stretches of coral. The absence of protective reefs has prevented the creation of coastal plains, so no roads go around any of the islands. Most of the people live in the narrow, fertile river valleys. The interiors are inhabited only by hundreds of wild horses, cattle, and goats. The southern islands that we visited are green and humid.
From 80,000 at the beginning of the 19th century, the population fell to about 15,000 by 1842, when the French "protectors" arrived, and to a devastated 2,000 by 1926. Even today the total population is just 8,000.
Fatu Hiva
Land ho!! On May 12th, after 21 days, we spot land and
boy does it look good. I've never seen a better looking island. Actually, it is
dramatic, especially the
Bay of Virgins where we anchored. The bay is in the
middle of two lush green ridges of vegetation that nearly meet at the entrance
to the bay, where the village of Hanavave is located.On Sunday, May 13 we decide to walk from Hanavave to Omoa, the only other village on the island. As we walked through Hanavave, we pass the church, which is crowded with all the villagers and a few yachties. We stop outside and listen as they sing a hymn. The village has dozens of stray dogs roaming the streets. Once we walk out of the village,
approximately two blocks, the concrete road turns to dirt. It's 10
miles up and down steep terrain on a dirt road to Omoa. During our hike we were
rewarded with dizzying views. At one point we were so high up that we were even
with the clouds. Along the way we saw a few petroglyphs, which are ancient
stone carvings. We stopped at the top and had some lunch. As we were walking
down towards Omoa, Steve and Alan were in the lead with Duane, Pete and me
bringing up the rear. As we round a corner we see Steve and Alan quickly
devouring some food. As we got closer we could see that they were eating mangos
that had fallen from some trees. You would have thought that they had found
gold. Suddenly Pete, Duane and Steve
are in
the grove of trees quickly grabbing every mango in sight. You would have
thought that they had not eaten in days instead of hours. I continue along the
road and pick up two mangos that had fallen by the side. We eat as we walk. The
mangos taste great especially because they are so juicy. We also come across a
coconut. Alan does the honors of throwing the coconut on a rock until it cracks
and he can get into it.
After about five hours of hiking, we descend into Omoa. The road goes right by the beach where about a dozen children are playing in the surf. The guys change into their bathing suits and go in. I forgot my suit so I just wade in up to my knees. While we are at the beach, six teenage guys take an outrigger canoe out beyond the surf and disappear around the corner.
We walk around the village and find a guy who is selling flavored ice in cups out of his house. We only have American dollars but he doesn't mind and sells us some cups. Then he gives us two quarts of water for free. I guess we looked like we needed some water.
No one wants to walk back so we ask around for a ride. A woman offers to have her husband give us a ride back in his boat for $60 USD. We agree, since the only person who will to take us by car wants to charge $120 USD. The boat ride is about 15 minutes. During the ride the man puts out a fishing line without a rod with a small lure on it. About half way back to the anchorage, he gets a 2-foot Mahi Mahi.
There is a fresh water faucet next to the concrete ramp that is used for a dinghy dock. The guys take all our empty water containers and fill them up while I make dinner. We have been told by other yachties that the water is good to drink. After dinner we celebrate our landfall by having rum and cokes. Everyone is tired and in bed by 9:00 PM.
Hiva Oa
On Monday, May 14 we sailed from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa, which is 40 miles and took us seven hours. We anchor in Traitor's Bay with 27 other sailboats. This morning Steve tried to light the stove to make breakfast and discovered that we are out of butane. While we knew we had a small leak in the hose from the butane tank that caused us to lose butane every time we cooked, we went through two tanks of butane extremely quickly. Hopefully, we can buy more on Hiva Oa. Due to no butane, we decide to go into town for dinner. We take the dinghy to the dinghy dock and a local takes us into town. The local turns out to be Pepe, who has his own tour guide business. He tells us that he will give us a full day tour of the island, which includes a stop at an archeological site for $200 USD. He mentions that another couple wants to do the tour on Wednesday and that we could join them and split the costs. The ride into town is about 2 miles. We ask him to drop us off at a restaurant that will take American dollars, since the bank was closed and we have not been able to exchange our money into Polynesian Francs.The restaurant is an open-air restaurant situated on a hill overlooking the bay. They don't serve dinner until 7 PM so we buy drinks and sit in the lounge area which is in the front of the restaurant and enables us to sit and soak in the fantastic view. Right behind us is the bar area which has a computer and a phone in the corner. This is the only internet café on the island. Everyone calls home to let their loved ones know that we have safely crossed the Pacific. Unfortunately Pete finds out from his mom that his grandmother had passed away a few days after we had left the Galapagos.
Everyone's dinner was great. I had a large piece of beef and about three cups of green beans. After dinner, we get a ride back to the anchorage from a restaurant employee. The people on this island are very friendly and cater to the yachties
Tuesday, May 15 is errand day. Alan and Duane are responsible for getting more butane and going to the Gendarme (port authority) to do our official check in to French Polynesia. The stop we made at Faua Hiva was an "unofficial" stop that Alan will fail to mention when he checks in with the Gendarme. Pete, Steve and I are responsible for changing money and provisioning. When we get to the bank, we find out that the electricity is off in that part of the village. So we wander around going into the shops that are open and waiting for the electricity to come back on. About an hour later it's on so we go to the bank where there is already 10 people sitting around waiting. There are two tellers and one of them has a closed sign in front of him. About 20 minutes later we have our money and are ready to go grocery shopping. We buy a few things in one of the three small grocery stores in town before they close for lunch (12:30 until 2:30 PM). Actually all the stores, bank and the Gendarme are closed for lunch.
We run into Duane and Alan (the village is very small) and we all go to Snack Make Make for lunch. We all have hamburgers and sodas. Sometimes you just need to have something familiar. We see the two bank tellers and the Gendarme officials eating (and drinking beer) here as well. After lunch, which cost 1100 francs ($8.46 USD) apiece, we buy soft serve ice cream for 200 francs ($1.50 USD).
Duane and Alan tell us that they met a guy named Juan who is currently crewing on Joss who says he will be joining Dario on Tillikum in Raiatea. Tillikum is the boat that we will be joining in mid June. Jaun said that he had just received an email from Dario that told him about us and that we were on Rhum Punch at Hiva Oa and that he should look for us. Later that day, we take the dinghy by Joss and introduce ourselves to Juan.
Hiva Oa Island Tour
On Wednesday, May 16 we take the island
tour with Pepe. There are nine yachties. There are actually two other couples
that are taking the tour with us so we go in two trucks. Sabin, who is Pepe's
wife, drives the other truck with the two couples. The five of us go with Pepe.
Unfortunately, only four of us can fit in the cab so Steve and Duane sit in the
back. Pepe asks the other yachties if they will switch vehicles so the five of
us can sit together in the bigger cab of the other truck but they don't want to
change vehicles. During the tour, Pete and I would open the back window and
give Steve and Duane the condensed version of what Pepe was saying. Pepe is
very knowledgeable and has a great sense of humor. While we were driving, Pepe
would point
out
various trees and bushes. As we drive to the archeological site, we stop
numerous times to cut down bunches of bananas that are on his family's
property. We also stop at a farmer's house and order two bags of pompamouse for
us. Pompamouse is French for grapefruit but these are more than two times
larger than the ones at home. We will pick them up on the way back. We get to
the archeological site around noon and Pepe explains how it was used as a
multi-purpose temple. There are four tikis (stone sculptures used in the old
days for religious rites and sorcery) at the site.Next we drive to a nearby beach for a picnic lunch. Duane, Alan and Steve go swimming before lunch. Sabin gives everyone a fresh French baguette, which complements our packed lunch very well.
When Pepe returns us to the anchorage, Pete and I get a ride from him to the Internet restaurant where we eat dinner. Pete has a full meal while I have a salad. We also use the Internet and have a couple of sodas. Our bill is $54 USD! Boy, is this place expensive. Generally, we can expect all of French Polynesia to be about twice as expensive as home.
Tahuata
On May 17 we motorsailed about 10 miles
from Hiva Oa to Tahuata. We anchor at Hana Moe Noa, which is an uninhabited bay
with bright white sandy beaches and crystal clear water. There are five other
sailboats in the anchorage. The water is so clear that we can clearly see the
anchor 20 feet below us. We all go snorkeling to the beach, which is rimmed
with palm trees. This is the picture postcard place we have all been dreaming
about.For dinner it is decided that we will have a bonfire on the beach and cook hot dogs and beans over it. After dinner, Alan and Duane give me a ride back to the boat in the dinghy. I have decided not to participate in the great lobster hunt. Pepe, our guide on Hiva Oa, told us that lobster could be found in the rocks that rim the small bay on each side and that you could easily find them in the night. So the guys take their snorkel gear, spear guns and headlamps and set off. They are in two teams. Alan and Pete work together and Steve and Duane are together. After two hours, they return to the boat with one small crab. They didn't even see any lobsters.
This crab is most unusual. It has five circles the size of quarters on the top of its shell. After we cook it, the shell is so hard that Alan has to take a hacksaw to it to crack it open. There is very little meat in the body, but the claws are very tasty. This guy definitely was not a Maryland Blue.
Friday, May 18 at 9 PM we leave Tahuata and set sail for Ahe, an atoll in the Tuamotu Islands. The distance is 500 miles. We leave in the night because we are trying to arrive at Ahe in the morning in 2.5 days so we can go through the pass in daylight. Of course, who knows what will happen since we are depending on the wind.